Goth with a feather boa...

I had a strange morning today. I planned to go to Saint Severin to see the palm grove (the column and arch system that creates the nave and aisles), which is supposed to be the best example of Flamboyant Gothic style. When you have the opportunity to see the BEST flamboyant gothic Catholic Church, you go, and it’s literally 20 yards from my door. Upon my arrival, I find that it’s closed to visitors except for a tour on Saturdays at 7:00, which seems exceedingly specific to me, and mass. There is mass every day and almost all day on Sunday so my new plan is attend 10:30 Sunday mass. I can’t wait to hear how God sounds in French surrounded by flamboyant gothic palm groves.

My next stop is the Bibliothéque Saint-Geneviéve. It is one of the first buildings to use iron for the interior structure, creating a new aesthetic of lightness. The stone exterior is in contrast to the light interior and engraved with the names of many philosophers and scientists whose works can be found inside. It is an enormous rectangle that takes up an entire block. In the center of the elevation, there is one small green door, and it’s locked. The 8 ½ x 11 piece of paper tacked to the door says it is open from 8-8. I think. My French is not so good. Two attempts to site see and no luck. It felt very Twilight Zone to me (the 60's TV show, not the book series). The only antidote to that is coffee. I paid the extra $3 to sit down.Things really turned around for me in the afternoon when I met Geraldine, my new French tutor, for a lesson. She is fabulous, in an earthy Left bank way. Arty and bohemian - with thick grey hair, kind blue eyes, and full but subversive smile. She writes French screen plays in the morning and tutors in the afternoon. I like her very much. In her encouraging but stern voice, Geraldine tells me French is all about the rhythm and I should not think but feel it. Apparently, Americans only speak with their mouths and we are leaving a lot on the table. French requires the mouth, nose, and throat. I’m diligently working on my throat clearing sound. Unlike the rolling r, I can make the noise, just not on cue so I’m hopeful. I like Geraldine’s technique because it’s all speaking, no reading or writing. In my humble opinion, the people who invented written French must have started the meeting with some hallucinogenic mushrooms, sautéed in butter of course. The letters don’t correlate to the sounds in any way. I know that sounds ethnocentric of me, but Spanish and Italian seem to use the appropriate letter for a sound. Aren’t they all based in Latin? I accept and love French as it is, but it’s better for me not to see it in written form. I just get confused.

I know you are wondering how learning to speak, but not read, French will help me with my library situation. Honestly, I don’t know, but let’s take it one step at a time. I am a middle aged dog so I only have so many tricks left.